The Fimmvörðuháls diary

Fimmvörðuháls is a pass between two glaciers (Mýrdalsjökull and Eyjafjallajökull) in southern Iceland. It is also the centre-piece of a 25km walk from Skogar to Thorsmork, now interrupted quite magnificently by the fresh lava fields of the 2010 eruption (yes, that one). It is a classic Icelandic route and each midsummer, hundreds walk the whole trail in one go, under the midnight sun.

I walked it at the end of June 2012, when things were a bit quieter, with a group organised by Utivist. My photos from those couple of days are here; to provide some commentary, I’ve also posted my journal entries from the walk here:

Day One: Skogar to Fimmvörðuháls

Day Two: Fimmvörðuháls to Basar (Thorsmork)

Day Three: Rettarfell

You can read about two other Icelandic walks by following the links for the Laugavegurinn and for Hornstrandir.

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8 Responses to The Fimmvörðuháls diary

  1. pabl0chang says:

    Great blog! I can’t wait to go through all your pictures! I’m planning to go to Iceland next summer. Are these walk (Fimmvordulhals and Laugaveggurin) ones that you can do yourself or would you recommend going wit a tour group? How much did you pay for your group? Thanks!

    • adeharvey says:

      Thanks! I think the Laugavegurinn is something you could do on your own as the route is pretty clear and well used; but I was glad to have a guide on the way up to Fimmvorduhals, as the route is a little hard to pick out and, given that it follows the gorge and waterfalls, taking the wrong path could put you in some uncomfortable (if not out and out dangerous) situations. I went with Utivist for both trips and they were really good – small groups – mainly Icelanders – good guides and because they own most of the huts on these routes you have no problem getting a bed. I think I paid about £130 pounds for the Fimmvorduhals route, but their rates are on the website. Have fun!

  2. Angela says:

    Awesome post! I am trying to book this hike through Utivist as well, and I was kinda shocked that the website is in Icelandic! As I was translating what all needed to be filled out, I realized that I have to provide my social security number. Did you have to do this? It makes me a little nervous, to be honest.

    • adeharvey says:

      Hi Angela
      Glad the post helped confirm your plans! However, I didn’t have to hand over that kind of information – there is a bit of the site in English ( but I’d just email them; I’ve always found them very helpful. Hope this helps – do go, and don’t worry about Utivist, I’ve used them a few times with no problems.

      • Angela says:

        Thank you so much for your quick reply! I have been emailing their email: for the past couple of days (because I leave for Iceland in only 13 days!) and I have had no response! When booking the tour online, it’s asking me for my ‘Kennitala’, which translates into social security ID. Maybe I’m translating incorrectly?

      • adeharvey says:

        Hi Angela
        Sorry for not being in touch. I’ve been back through my emails and I definitely arranged the whole thing (including payment) through emails, rather than their website. It sounds like they have developed their systems rather. If you’re still not getting any response from the, I’d try the website booking, or maybe try to track down Leifur Hakonarson (my guide) online?
        Sorry I can’t be more helpful.

      • Angela says:

        I’m sorry for the excessive emails! But how did you book your hikes? Did you just click on one of the dates provided and go from there?

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