Monthly Archives: August 2023

Lónsöræfi, July 2023

Lónsöræfi is a national park in the east of Iceland, hugging the eastern fringe of the vast Vatnjökull glaicer. It‘s pretty empty most of the time, and poorly way-marked in the north, so a guide is a very good idea … Continue reading

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Lónsöræfi Day 1: Eyjabakkar – Geldingafell

15.6km – 478m gain – 6.5 hours Up early in Egilsstaðir, in what was once Birta’s Guesthouse. Five years ago it was Birta’s Guesthouse. My phone even remembered the wi-fi password. I stayed here on a previous trip out to … Continue reading

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Lónsöræfi Day 2: Geldingafell – Vesturdalur – Egilssel

20.2km – 880m gain – 10 hours Egilssel hut, 8.05pm. I have a bunk from which there is no chance I might fall, as it is squarely on the floor of the spacious loft. The hut sits on a hill … Continue reading

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Lónsöræfi Day 3: Egilssel – Tröllakrókahnaus – Víðidalur

13.5km, 700m gain, 9 hours It’s 8.50 and I’m back at Egilssel hut. After trying to be more sociable, sitting listening to Hjalti read to the group, I have finally retreated up to my safe and (relatively) spacious bunk to … Continue reading

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Lónsöræfi Day 4: Egilssel – Múlaskáli

14.5km – 350m gain – 7.5 hours Outside Múla hut, the last hut of the trip. After some rain this afternoon, the sky is clearing and it’s turning into a pleasant evening. It’s much warmer down here (around 200m, according … Continue reading

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Lónsöræfi Day 5: Múlaskáli – Smiðjunes

21.5km – 850m gain – 8.5 hours Birta’s Guesthouse, Egilsstaðir; very wet. The day started earlier than I was expecting – no-one told me that we were due to leave by 7.30am. I was surprised when people started to emerge … Continue reading

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